The editors at Eater LA dine out several times a week, if not per day, which means we’re always encountering standout dishes that deserve time in the limelight. Here’s the very best of everything the team has eaten this week.
Tallow cornbread at Smokey Chance BBQ in Culver City
I grew up eating plush and sweet Yankee-style cornbread. However, after two decades of regular travel to Alabama to visit my in-laws, I can appreciate the Southern savory version just as much. I was taken aback in the best way when I took a bite of Derrell Smith’s adorably portioned cornbread at the weekends-only Smokey Chance barbecue stall inside Citizen Public Market. Prepared with beef tallow from brisket drippings and just a touch of brown sugar, the simple-seeming side dish blew me away with its rich, smoky, salty depth of flavor. When a side dish gives the main dish energy, it’s hard to focus on anything else. 9355 Culver Boulevard, Culver City, CA 90232. Cathy Chaplin, senior editor
Seafood roll flight at Luke’s Lobster in Santa Monica
Though I never had the chance to try Luke’s Lobster in my numerous visits to New York City, I’m glad the East Coast chain finally made its way to the West Coast with a handy location just steps from the beach in Santa Monica. While chilly, windy Southern California winter weather doesn’t exactly make one crave lobster rolls, I mustered the courage to come for a lunch meeting to try the limited-time offering of snow crab. While the snow crab meat was sweet and tender, I also loved the seafood roll trio, priced similarly to a full lobster roll at $33 but served in three half-rolls full of Jonah crab, lobster, and shrimp. The seafood lover in me couldn’t resist taking bites of each roll one after the other to get the breadth of fresh East Coast shellfish wrapped in plush, buttery buns. 200 Santa Monica Boulevard, Santa Monica, CA 90401. Matthew Kang, lead editor
Bone-in chicken tamal at Auntie’s Kitchen in Jefferson Park
I stumbled upon a new Belizean spot called Auntie’s Kitchen while updating Eater’s tamal guide. The small menu served at this Saturday-only food trailer changes each week and even offers Garifuna dishes from time to time. A highlight was the bone-in chicken tamal consisting of a seasoned masa with a stewy filling overflowing with lots of spice. Auntie’s onion sauce added a layer of heat and wasn’t watered down as it is at other Belizean restaurants. This deft touch showed the trailer’s gourmet approach and commitment to delivering full-on flavors. Also memorable was the extra-thick gravy on the oxtails, and tender pigtail served over rice with garlicky beans, sweet plantains, and tangy coleslaw. This kind of Belizean home cooking has been missing since Ella’s Belizean closed some years ago. It’s the best Kriol cooking in town. 3566 S. Western Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90018. — Bill Esparza, contributor
Upside Down Mamba at LaSorted’s in Silver Lake
Ordering by the slice is the true test of a great pizzeria. While puffy Neopolitan pies have their place in my heart right alongside crisp-edged Detroit-style pies, most of the time I’m looking for a quick slice that’ll make for an affordable lunch or snack. Luckily, LaSorted’s, one of LA’s best pizzerias, has added a second location in Chinatown to its repertoire, making it easier than ever to grab a slice or two. My go-to is the Upside Down Mamba, a cheese slice flipped on its head so the sauce is on top, while the melty cheese forms a salty layer between the tomato and the bread. It’s a don’t-knock-it-until-you-try-it situation — I like it more than the classic cheese. If not near Chinatown, check out the original slice shop in Silver Lake. 2847 Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90026. — Rebecca Roland, associate editor
Cast iron cornbread at Norman at the Skyview Los Alamos
Take time to explore the Skyview motel in Los Alamos before stationing yourself in Norman’s charming dining room, where a crooner is performing on the grand piano if you’re lucky. It’s a stunning Central California experience that begins at the parking lot. Either walk or buzz the front office for a brief golf cart ride up the hill and admire the grounds, especially the fire pit, the “motel” sign glimmering in the pool, and the winding paths. Once you’ve made it to dinner, ask the host or server to put in an order for the cast iron cornbread immediately. Chef Dustin Badenell’s menu is unexpected and one of the region’s standouts served in a relaxed room. The seasonal harvest salads are fresh, while the cavatelli is flavorful and saucy. The cornbread must be enjoyed while hot; its creaminess might be mistaken for being uncooked, but its fresh cream and corn that drive the consistency. The fermented hot honey has a slow spiced build with every bite, and smoked Maldon salt is why the sweet, salty, and savory flavors blend so beautifully. Ask your server to recommend a glass of minerally white wine to go with this appetizer, and the meal is off to an excellent start. 9150 US-101 Los Alamos, CA, 93440. — Mona Holmes, reporter